Amigurumi pattern generator

How to use it

1. Pick the shape: a ball for a head, an egg or tube for a body, a half ball for a hat or muzzle, a cone for a hat, horn or carrot, a flat circle for a base or an ear.
2. Give the size in cm or inches, or the stitch count round the widest part if a pattern already tells you it.
3. Give your gauge: stitches and rounds per 10 cm (4 in) of your single crochet in the round. If you have not measured it, crochet a small flat circle and choose Measure a test circle.
4. Crochet from the list: tap each round as you finish it; the ticks stay on this device. Stuff at the marked round, then close.
5. Keep it: copy the text, print the PDF, or send the share link.

The rules it uses

Everything is worked in a spiral of single crochet from a magic ring. The widest round is the circumference you asked for in stitches, rounded to a multiple of the ring so the increases can go up by the ring every round: a 7 cm ball at 20 stitches per 10 cm is π × 7 × 2 = 44 stitches, so 42 from a ring of 6. That is why the finished size can differ from what you typed by up to half a ring's worth of stitches (±0.48 cm here); the page says how much each time.

A ball needs rounds from pole to pole that cover half its widest round. At 22 rounds per 10 cm one round is 0.455 cm, and 42 stitches of 0.5 cm is 21 cm round, so 10.5 cm ÷ 0.455 = 23 rounds: 7 increase rounds (6 to 42), 10 even rounds and 6 decrease rounds (42 to 6). Taller rounds mean fewer even rounds; if your gauge gives fewer rounds than the increases and decreases need, there are no even rounds and the ball comes out a little tall. A half ball stops at a quarter of the widest round. An egg is a ball with extra even rounds for its extra length, either in the middle or one after each early decrease round so one end is longer. A tube is a flat circle, then the side, then (if you close it) a flat top. A cone grows in a straight line from the ring to the base over its slant height.

Spread and stagger. Each change round cuts the stitches below into runs as equal as the numbers allow and puts one increase (or decrease) at the end of each. A round may start a few stitches into its first run, and the page picks the start that lands its changes farthest from the last change round's: Rnd 4: inc, (2 sc, inc) × 5, 2 sc [24] puts its increases at the start of each sixth, so Rnd 5: 2 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) × 5, sc [30] puts them past the middle. Worked as (2 sc, inc) × 6, (3 sc, inc) × 6, (4 sc, inc) × 6, the six increases pile up at the end of each sixth and the piece turns into a hexagon.

Stuff now is marked after the last closing round with at least three times the ring (18 for a ring of 6): after that the hole gets hard to fill.

Starting gauges by yarn weight

From the Craft Yarn Council, “Standard Yarn Weight System” (fetched 2026-10-21), single crochet stitches per 4 in: super fine 21–32, fine 16–20, light (DK) 12–17, medium (worsted, aran) 11–14, bulky 8–11, super bulky 7–9. The Council calls these guidelines only. The table gives no rounds, so choosing a weight sets rounds equal to stitches (a square stitch) until you measure. If you go down a hook size or two for a firmer fabric, you will fit more stitches into 10 cm than the table says: measure a test circle when you can.

US and UK terms

The Craft Yarn Council's crochet abbreviations (fetched 2026-10-21) give U.S. single crochet (sc) = U.K. double crochet (dc), and U.S. gauge = U.K. tension. inc (increase: 2 stitches in one) and dec (decrease: sc2tog, 2 stitches together) are the same in both. In UK terms every sc in the pattern becomes dc; nothing else changes. Many amigurumi makers work each dec as an invisible decrease (PlanetJune, read 2026-10-21), made for single crochet in the round so the decreases do not leave lumps or gaps.

What it cannot do

• Single crochet in the round only (US sc, UK dc), worked in a spiral. No rows, no other stitches.
• No colour changes, stripes or appliqué parts. Each shape is one colour of yarn.
• It does not join shapes into a toy. Make a head, body and ears one by one and sew them together yourself.
• Sizes are estimates from your gauge. Stuffing stretches the fabric, so a firmly stuffed ball comes out a little larger; the 3D picture is drawn from the stitch counts and your round height, not from a stuffed toy.
• No shape from a picture, and no free-form outlines: six shapes only.
• Saved on this device only. Settings and ticked rounds are kept in this browser's local storage; “Clear saved work” deletes them. A share link carries the settings after the #, which browsers do not send to any server.

Questions

Is there a free amigurumi sphere calculator that writes the whole pattern?

This is one: free, no sign-up, and it writes every round, not only the stitch counts. Sphere calculators often stop at a formula or a single shape; this one writes the ball, half ball, egg, tube, cone and flat circle at your own gauge, and prints a PDF with a box to tick per round.

How do I crochet a perfect sphere?

No crocheted ball is perfectly round, but three things help: enough even rounds in the middle (the rule above), increases and decreases staggered so they do not form corners, and firm, even stuffing. The 3D picture shows the shape the counts make before stuffing; a ball that looks a little tall there will round out as you stuff it.

How do I crochet an oval or egg shape?

Choose Egg / oval and give both the width and the length. The page works out the widest round from the width and adds one even round for every round height of extra length. “One end longer” puts some of those rounds between the first decrease rounds so one end tapers, like an egg.

How do I crochet a cone shape?

Choose Cone and give the base width and height. The tip starts from the magic ring, so it is as blunt as a ring of 5 to 8 stitches (choose 5 for a sharper tip), and each round grows in proportion to its distance from the tip, so increases are fewer per round than in a flat circle and spread round by round.

What does Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24] mean?

In round 4, work one single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches, then 2 single crochet in the next stitch, and repeat that 6 times: 24 stitches at the end of the round.